Efes(Ephesus) and Selcuk

Temple of Artemis: Considered one of the seven wonders of the ancient world, it doesn't look like much, but the place is ripe with history, significance and a sense that important things went down in the space. 

Selcuk, Turkey.  

This is a special Turkish species of cat- it has one green and one blue eye!

Izmir- the SF of Turkey

    

So, Izmir, where to start. This city, on its own little bay off the mediterannean was an unexpectedly enjoyable part of the trip to Kapadokya. We got off our flight from Istanbul, hopped on the metro conveniently linked to the airport and rode a train to the central neighborhood of city- Konak. Since our layover was some, 5 hours, we had time to visit the city and grab dinner before getting on the flight to Kayseri. We emerged from beneath the ground to colonnades of palm trees against a blue blue ski, a gray cobble-stoned walkway beneath our feet. After taking a wrong turn and backtracking to where we came from we found our way to the main market street, parts of which were covered with stretched fabric roofs stretching from wall to wall. Every item imaginable was sold in this outdoor hallway bazaar: clothing, scarves, toys, lighters, nuts, spices, food, shoes, instruments, carpets- EVERYthing. We stopped at a pizza place that looked to be a local chain. We copied the order of a family sitting nearby and ate the pizza as they did; with mayonnaise and ketchup and with a fork and knife. Sounds gross, but we loved it. The mayo here has this great lemony, slighting garlicky more classy aioli taste to it. After dinner we roamed the market streets more, there were so many, and they seemed to continue on forever. We had to turn back before we found the "end" which I'm still not convinced even existed. 

Fast forward through our Kapadokya trip to the way back to Istanbul, when we also stopped in Izmir, this time for a 36 hour layover. We had the wonderful fortune of picking the right Airbnb host for this city. Tarik, a photographer/windsurfing instructor, citizen of the world, adventurous and knowledgeable, friendly, popular, funny, thoughtful and so helpful. He met us at the airport with a bus card for us to use and showed us the bus route to his apartment. He lives in a traditional neighborhood, and pointed out the apartment building type that is considered a traditional Turkish style. They do an interesting enclosed balcony bump-out, similar to a bay window, but square, with ornamented supports, like something you would see on a piece of furniture. I unfortunately since it was at night I don't have a great picture, but you can kind of see it in this one below.

We woke up on Thanksgiving day and took a day trip to Efes (Ephesus: see separate post). We came back to the apartment and then went out for dinner and drinks with Tarik. We went down to Konak, to the market streets we'd seen before, but this time at night. After picking up my credit card at the pizza place I left it at. (Yes, I left my card, and yes, the restaurant held onto it for me until I returned= Turkish people are AWESOME) we went to a family owned locals' favorite kebab place. We ate a fantastic dinner of bread, salad, kebabs, and rice for the equivalent of ten US dollars. Yum.  

We then went along a path near the coast on our way to the "Taksim" of Izmir, a pedestrian walkway similar to Istanbul's Istiklal. The waterfront was flanked on one side by ocean views, the other was a continuous string of bars and restaurants with awnings extending out to the outdoor seating. 

We passed through a square where on the anniversary of Ataturk's death, volunteers staged a google earth scale commemoration. Volunteers wearing the same t-shirts and dark pants arranged themselves according to a pre-marked set of numbered points designed so that from a birds eye view, the arrangement of people looked like Ataturk's face. Tarik was one of these volunteers. The numbered points are still there. We thought it was really cool; I'm not sure there is one historical figure that so many people love that much in the U.S. I guess maybe Abraham Lincoln- especially lately. 

x

 

The downtown area of Izmir was a bit smaller scaled, the street more narrow, buildings shorter, varied. We turned down a smaller alley street to cramped restaurant fronts with extended awnings and outdoor seats. It was charming, there were lights and music and a lot of people talking, drinking for a Thursday night. We went to a bar with a rooftop patio where a Couchsurfer meetup was underway. We met a lot of people, many of who spoke good English. We learned that Cesme is the spot in the summer- it's where Tarik teaches windsurfing, and where other people have family cottages. Our favorite friend spoke very little English but had awesome hair, and a universal sense of humor.

 

Orient Restaurant- Goreme, Nevsehir, Kapadokya, Turkey

As a side note Turkey breaks down cities into smaller town/neighborhoods which was a bit confusing based on what we we're used to. Goreme, which is the town of Nevsehir that we stayed in is the most traditional, with real cave houses, whereas other towns have hotels that were just constructed to look like the cave houses. Kapadokya refers to the region, and it covers 5 cities, including Nevsehir and Kayseri (the city we flew into).

After our eventful green tour, we decided the balloon tour was not going to be enjoyable enough for the price, so we decided to splurge on dinner instead. Before anyone who goes to Turkey after reading this dismisses the balloon experience though, we've heard that it is amazing and totally worth it, a "must-do". Unfortunately we weren't prepared for the 5 degree celsius weather, and it was only going to be colder high up in the air. It was also foggy, so the view was going to be partially blocked by cloud cover.

We went to the recommended Orient Restaurant, across the street from the big balloon tour companies in Goreme. It is easy to miss since it is off the main car traffic street on the fringe of the town instead of the more charming, curving cobblestone streets on the interior of Goreme. You walk in through a garden courtyard, to a wooden and glass floor to ceiling windowed long room that juts out of the modest stone building. White table cloths, wine glasses on the table, white cloth napkins; this place's decor was simple, elegant and prepared us for the great menu. They have their own greenhouse next door where they grow vegetables for the restaurant, which I thought was really great. It is great to see and experience that trend go international. We ordered a lentil soup, cheese pastry appetizer, turkish goulash, and baklava from the fix menu, and a flambe steak they set on fire at the table in front of you. It was totally delicious. Our hostess was this really nice Australian fellow-foodie lady that we had a blast chatting with. The restaurant staff was all really great, with senses of humor and the desire to continue to bring us things and chat with us even after we've paid. Unlike in the States, when you feel like you are being chased out of the restaurant when you're the only people there late at night, no one will ever rush you in a turkish restaurant, and you always have to ask for the check. We ordered a bottle of locally made wine which the region is known for in addition to pottery and onyx stone goods/jewelry.

The meal was excellent, the vegetables fresh, everything was perfectly seasoned, the 4 steak sauces were interesting flavors and the steak itself melted in your mouth- you could cut it with a butter knife. Turkish goulash turned out to be similar to the pottery cooked kebabe: tomatoes, beef, peppers and turkish spices cooked together in a casserole dish and served with rice and a slaw salad with a wedge of lemon for the dressing.

After dinner, the restaurant owner came to talk with us and told us of his friend in Avanos- the pottery town in Nevsehir that we should visit the next day. He treated us to hazelnuts and samples of Raki- the turkish spirit that tastes like black licorice and is traditionally drunk half and half with water. When you put water in it, the clear spirit turns milky. Honestly, it's not my thing- I'm not a fan of black licorice, but it was something to try. He invited us to return and stay at his guesthouse whenever we come back.

On our way home, we were escorted by two adorable dogs we encountered outside the restaurant. Before you freak out, you have to realize that 'strays' in Turkey are actually well taken care of, and usually they belong to someone. The restaurant owner even told us he has a german shepard that he uses to help guests find their way. In fact, one of the dogs might of been his dog. They walked us all the way back to our hostel (about a ten/fifteen minute walk). It was so cute- we loved them instantly, though I think anywhere else we would be concerned there were seemingly stray animals following us. They knew not to go into the hostel after us, it was like they just wanted to make sure we made it back safely. Awww... puppies- so cute.

The waiter put potatoes wrapped in foil in the fireplace and then shared some with us when they were ready.

Our guard-dogs